Liberty and Democracy

Happy Liberty and Democracy Day! It was actually yesterday but I was too busy savoring my liberty and democracy to write. Dec. 1 is the day Idriss Deby took power 14 years ago and removed any vestiges of liberty or democracy. It’s a weird experience to wish Chadians “Happy Liberty and Democracy Day!” when they’re living under one of the most corrupt dictators in the world. But the word is that Idriss’ health is failing. And the Darfur crisis is shaking the regime a bit too, because Deby’s ethnic group is one of the groups involved in Darfur. They’re kind of one of the satellite groups – they’re not specifically being persecuted but have been a bit. So there’s tension over that because 80% of Deby’s group is in Sudan, only 20% here. So the rest of his group wants him to help them, but he’s got to balance that with his diplomatic relationship with Sudan’s government. So things are looking shaky for Idriss (affectionately called ‘Lil Deby by our group) There’s also quite a bit of north/south tensions too. My host teacher warned me to never trust a northerner – “They will act like your friend and then they will kill you!” (Complete with throat-slitting motion).

We have a game we play at kind of random times. We all imagine our moms land in a helicopter next to us and are thrown into the situation with no preparation. Yesterday, 6 of us were walking the four miles from Nelson’s house to our compound down one of the main (paved) roads in N’Dhjamena. The air was thick with dust and exhaust. Taxis and ramshackle trucks and old bikes and dirty motorbikes (Chad-where cars come to die) careen by. Tired men and women shuffle home from work while others sit at open air bars talking and laughing. And then – Rush Hour! A herder leads his head of skinny, big horned cattle across the road and traffic screeches to a halt! In the capital city! On the main road! Now imagine yourself climbing out of a helicopter and that scene greeting you. Ha! Fun game, huh?

Training is winding down so quickly. I’m in the middle of preparing my speech for swearing in and man, it’s really hard to write 5 minutes worth of witty and insightful observations about life in Chad…in French…But I have pity and admiration for Robin (her friend and fellow volunteer) who is doing it in Arabic. I’ll be sure to let you know how it all goes. We all selected a beautiful fabric together and are having matching outfits made for swearing in. There are so many tailors here and they do great work. I can’t wait to see my outfit! I’m getting a sort of ruffly tank top shirt with a long skirt. Should be tres belle!

I’m not quite ready to go out to site all alone, but I’m feeling more and more ok every day. Of course I know I am prepared and I have no doubts in my language and teaching abilities, but I don’t want to leave my friends. It’s another of those “what in the hell have I gotten myself into?” type moments. I’m trying to think of it as just moving to a new town. I have a hunch it will probably feel a lot like moving to St. Louis – completely overwhelming and exhausting. Hell, it will probably be easier than moving to St. Louis! Less culture shock! Haha

Let’s list the reasons I am right where I should be:

-predisposition toward crazy colors and patterns
-low standards of cleanliness
-love of eating and complete lack of pickiness
-willingness to make ass of myself
-love of dancing (see above)
-love of chunky funky jewelry

Me and Africa are perfect for each other!