Jingle Bells, Fecal Wells

My next-door neighbors, Mahamant and Fatime just had their 4th baby last Sunday. Mahamat is Pops’ oldest son. Last week Mahamat was all amped about the baptism party and said, “This place is gonna be full of people – even your house!” To which I mentally replied, “Crap.” The preparations started last night with the clamor of women’s voices drifting over my wall, filling me with dread. Se, I’m all for cultural adaptation and stuff, but I don’t really like big gatherings of people, even back home. I find them very fatiguing. And I really don’t enjoy large gatherings of people who I can barely understand and who are apt to yell at me to get up and dance for them. I’m still not comfortable in my role as pale-skinned circus freak.

So, this morning, one week after the baby’s birth, the marabou (equivalent of pastor) came to Mahmant and Fatime’s for the naming ceremony. This I didn’t actually see because I was cowering in my house, reading Jane Eyre in my jimmies. But Bebe explained it to me as the marabout opens the Koran and picks a name, and then whispers a verse in the baby’s ear. Then he kills two sheep and it’s time to partay! I don’t know the baby’s Koranic name, but her everyday name is Ache, after Fatimes Mom.

I decided to flee at least a portion of the day’s stress by going to Mary’s house. She’d asked me yesterday to make a star for the to of her Christmas tree but she didn’t know she was requesting the services of world’s (or at least Bol’s) premiere X-mas star maker. It was pretty awesome. Then she produced this German (she speaks fluent German) children’s cut out crèche/advent calendar. She thought me and the kiddos could do it. Unfortunately, the instructions were all in German and the cut out s were way too difficult for 5-year-old Latifu, so Aicha and I did most of the work. There weren’t even dotted lines to cut along! Apparently the Germans have very exacting standards for their holiday arts ‘n crafts. I pictured the uber-talented German child efficiently sniping away as I struggled to glue together the 3D manger.

At noon I left for home, promising the kids I’d be back later to finish. I slipped into my house and despite the racket next door, lay down to take a nap. Instantly, I heard a knock at my door, which I opened to find CaCa. She said, “Why are you over here? You need to go greet Fatime.” “CaCa, I’m scared to go alone!” I said. “I know,” she replied, “Let us go.” Oh, CaCa takes good care of me, doesn’t she? Their little concession, which is next to mine in the big concession, was full of voile-wrapped women. Some sat on mats, while others stood over bubbling kettles – enormous caldrons of sauce and other goodies, preparing lunch for the about 60 men who sat drinking tea and chatting across the street at Mahamat’s boss’ house.

We made our way into the house to say hi to Fatime and Baby Ache. It really wasn’t so bad. I smiled and nodded and pretended to understand the conversation. The ladies were delighted when I took their pictures, except for the few who modestly hid their faces.

I eventually escaped to go hang out with my sisters, who weren’t involved in the baptism, since it’s only for married women. It was a little calmer at the girls’ house. The women sent over a big platter of food for us and after eating I headed back to my house to find 6 women under my hanger on my mat well within my personal space. Thus I decided it was a good time to go finish the crèche.

The crèche was finished without event, and a fine crèche it be. It’s now sitting on a shelf far above reach of 2 year old Ousman. In my holiday cheer, I started singing Jingle Bells. Latifu, not knowing English, sang along nonsense words and I swear, I swear I’m not making this up, he sang “Fecal wells.” I had a very hearty one-person laugh over that one.

On that note, I’m over and out so I can send this off with my director who’s going to the states on the 5th. Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all.

Love,

Kate